Monthly Archives: August 2010


Guys, what can I say? Tied up at the Marina Taina in Tahiti… any better noon-sight than that?
(I realized I’ve been spelling in wrong… I’ve been writing Noon-SITE, when it should likely be noon-SIGHT).
Anyway, we’re here, tied up safe and sound and thrilled – the place is gorgeous, and we’re looking out over the reef, the big Tahitian waves, and Moorea across the channel. Wow. Very very cool I can tell you.


more soon


Noonsite – Monday – 30 August – the final stretch

12.00 Marquesas time (21.30 UTC)
Position / Posicao: 16.22.91 S (sul), 148.15.72 W (oeste)
Course / Rumo (COG): 208 degrees magnetic (208 graus magneticos) Speed / Velocidade (SOG, GPS): 5.5 – 6.0 knots (nos)
Wind: ESE, 10-11 knots
Swell: 1.0 m and less – sometimes it feels like sailing in Angra! Sunny Skies – temps in low 80’s (29 C)
Sailing under Genoa and double-reefed Main Sail
Noon to Noon distance: about 142 nm
Distance to Tahiti: about 94 nm
Just a quick one today guys (who doesn’t like a quickie every now and then). We had a very peaceful overnight sail and the sailing today has been light and easy – light winds, light seas. Still with Espumeru and should be going into the marina tomorrow morning together. Our destination is Marina Taina, near Papeete. We are looking forward to charging batteries (quite low!), a sweetwater washdown (for us and our blue lady), and start the Yanmar fix process. Heaven & Neptune help us.

Also curious to get good old fashioned gmail, and see the comments etc from the Blog. I don’t know if people realize it, but we don’t see any comments while we are underway, only when we have regular internet connection – and we haven’t had that since the Galapagos (five weeks ago). Should be interesting to see the comments from the usual crowd. We hope to post a few pictures tomorrow.

Anyway, this particular adventure (750 mile sail with no auxiliary diesel power) is too coming to a close and so far, a successful close at that. Just one more pucker-moment – and that will be going through the tiny pass tomorrow. Cross your fingers for us gang. Hope you’re having a great Monday. More news from us on Tuesday.

MM & Admiral Lara ‘Pretinha’ Canonico

Noonsite (and them some) – Sunday – 29 August – DOUBLE HOOKUP BABY! :-)

12.00 Marquesas time (21.30 UTC)
Position / Posicao: 14.55.75 S (sul), 146.32.49 W (oeste)
Course / Rumo (COG): 225 degrees magnetic (225 graus magneticos) Speed / Velocidade (SOG, GPS): 6.0 – 6.5 knots (nos)
Wind: ESE, 10-11 knots
Swell: 1.0 m and less
Sunny Skies – temps in low 80’s (29 C)
Sailing under Genoa and full Main Sail (except for the run with Jennifer) =====
Noon to Noon distance: about 136 nm
Distance to Tahiti: about 225nm
100229 – Sunday – Threading the Gap

We’ve begun our ‘gauntlet run’ of sorts, threading the gap between several of the Tuamotu Atolls en route to Papeete, Tahiti. This giant archipelago of atolls (lagoons ringed by coral reefs that were, a looooong time ago, land masses and volcanic islands… Think Hawaii and fast forward millions of years…) lies right across our path and either has to be circumnavigated (usually up and around the north) or simply crossed – the gauntlet! The atolls themselves are low – so low that you can’t really see them unless you are right upon them, say a few miles away at best, a few meters away on a dark night… They are also numerous and not necessarily charted 100%. That is why this area has been know in centuries past (even decades) as the ‘Dangerous Archipelago’. If you don’t know where it is, Google-it and look for Rangiroa, Ahe, Fakarava or simply ‘location of French nuclear testing in South Paicific’… Yes, the testing was done in this archipelago, though much much further south than we are at the moment.

Anyway, it’s an odd feeling to start to sail into this kind of area in the middle of the night – especially engine less and with a forecast of light winds… Our greatest fear is of course being without any sort of forward movement at all and drifting helplessly into an atoll or uncharted coral reef… Ok, so I’m exaggerating just a tad, but in the extreme, that would be our greatest danger. With the forecast winds, we still expect to make above 5 knots, which is plenty to get us through the passes. But, I mean, it’s a huge planet, mother nature is in charge from where I stand (float), and so you have to consider the alternatives…

But so far, so good! The winds are light, about 10 knots (we start to smile when the go over 12 knots, ’cause that’s when Walk On starts to March ahead to a groovier groove – at 10 knots she still saunters and asks us if we were really serious about sailing today, or what!?!?!?!), and the gap we are shooting now very wide: 36 nautical miles wide! This first gap is between Manihi, Fakatopatere and Takaroa atolls. We`re in the middle of that channel now and later this morning will be on a course directly for the beginning of the next ‘gap’ – this time between Rangiroa and Arutua, a 20 mile pass. From there, there are few navigational hazards to Papeete and the winds are forecasted to improve tomorrow. So… If all goes well, we should make Tahiti on Tuesday.

The next and most important detail that we are still working out is HOW are we going to get in… This will almost definitely be with some kind of a tow – though it remains to be seen if that will be a very very expensive professional tow or a tow ‘with a little help from my friends’ (other yachts already there). We shall see….

Fishing Update:
It couldn’t have been crazier… I was waking from a nap at about 14.00 and had a moka of coffee on the stove. Lara was up on the bow somewhere, talking by sat phone to Mom (first time in a long time she’s chatted with JoJo), and I’m starting to think about the afternoon. The rod goes zzzzzzzzzzz and screams out line as it will when a big fish is on. I went to the cockpit and the scene started to get crazy – also because I was chatting with Niklas from Espumeru on the VHF, and a gust was coming through, increasing boat speed – all at the same time. Then, I see the first fish (a Mahi Mahi) jumping and eventually spitting the hook (‘again???’ I thought). A moment later, the same fish (or was it?) bit on the hand line, which is further back by a ways. So a fish I had apparently lost on the reel line was now on the handline. Except, the reel started to go crazy again, zzzzzzzzzzzzzz!

Making the rest of the story short: we had a double mahi mahi hookup, two fish on at the same time, and landed both of them. I called for Lara for help, she got off the phone, and took up pulling in the handline (heavy duty line) while I fought the other fish on the rod (light line). As we don’t have bonafide freezer capabilities at the moment, we decied it was folly to keep both fish, and so released the second one. They were both about 4 and a half feet long, and I don’t know how many pounds – but one has plenty of fish for the two of us to eat three or four good meals from. The only part of this story that I am not sentimentally super happy about is that I think, seriously, that these two were a mated pair and now there is a widow(er) while the other will be going bit by bit into our bellies. Check it out on wikipedia or whatever, but I think dolphin fish (mahi mahi) mate monogamously and for life. Man they are gorgeous in the water though (hence the Spanish sounding name for ‘golden’ or ‘gilded’ – dourado).

Jennifer centerfold photos!
Yup, we got Jennifer out there in her fullest glory, without her shroud or any stitch whatsoever of any kind of covering… Just Jennifer the Gennaker out there in the breeze, showing off so that Niklas and Mira on Espumeru could get some pictures – our first! – of our lady under sail by gennaker. Really psyched to see those!!! Thanks guys.

More tomorrow guys…

Just wondering if my sister Judy will be in Papeete on Tuesday when we arrive – you know, to greet us but to celebrate her birthday! Judy, we expect to make Tahiti on your birthday – whaddya say we meet at the Marina and go out for your b-day celebration? MCN, whaddya say?

Mezzogiorno-Site! – Saturday – 28 August

12.00 Marquesas time (21.30 UTC)
Position / Posicao: 13.50.56 S (sul), 144.30.14 W (oeste)
Course / Rumo (COG): 240 degrees magnetic (240 graus magneticos)
Speed / Velocidade (SOG, GPS): 5.5 – 6.5 knots (nos) – varies greatly with the wind Wind: ESE, 11-13 knots
Swell: 1.0 m
Sunny Skies – temps in low 80’s (29 C)
Sailing under Genoa and Main Sail in third reef
Noon to Noon distance: about 125 nm
Distance to Ahe Waypoint: 112 nm
Had a good afternoon yesterday – just didn’t catch any fish at dusk. 😦 We did get some photos… Espumeru put up her spinnaker and sailed over and across our stern so we could get some pics. Like us, they didn’t have very many (or any) good pics of their boat underway… every yacht owner really loves pics of his own boat, under sail! Anyway, it was fun, and I think now there are a few good shots for them.

Overnight conditions started to grow very light – winds dying down to nearly 10 knots. The boat slowed down considerably of course but the seas were calm and so the night watches went very smoothly and the off-watchers got some good sleep.

This morning we had the lines in the water again and lost a monster mahi mahi. The hand-line, tied to the stern cleat, pulled violently out of the elastic snubber loop – making a good bang. Monster hit. Before I could even get to the line to feel the tension and start the battle, I saw the mahi mahi jumping and swimming away in a perpendicular line away from the stern. I can only guess he was over 2m long, or pretty close, because he jumped three times so I could see him really well. When I got the line in, I saw he’d managed to snap the wire leader (for marlin fishing) and made off with my largest hook on the home-made lure…

We’ve been discussing the next waypoint and the course with Espumeru. Because of the wind angle, we’ve been having a tough time keeping the W (or more northerly) course that we need to make the waypoint. So we’re playing with the idea of going through a different gap in the Tuamotus – this time not north of Ahe, but between Manihi and Takapoto atolls. I’ll let you know how that comes out.

Otherwise, we are fine, clicking away the miles to Papeete and trying to decide where we’ll anchor or moor while we go to work on the Yanmar. Thanks the family and friends for all the great emails coming in!


Noonsite – Friday – 27 August – Banana Pancakes, the real thing!

12.00 Marquesas time (21.20 UTC)
Position / Posicao: 12.44.72 S (sul), 142.39.97 W (oeste) – yesterday was 140 W, not 144! Course / Rumo (COG): 230 degrees magnetic (230 graus magneticos) Speed / Velocidade (SOG, GPS): 6 knots (nos)
Wind: ESE (110 degrees on the compass), 15-17 knots
Swell: 2.0, mostly regular, with the odd side swipe from time to time… Sunny Skies – temps in low 80’s (29 C)
Sailing under Genoa and Main Sail in third reef
Noon to Noon distance covered: 152 nm
Distance to first waypoint, off Ahe Atoll: 237 nm
this is a Blog post and cc email for cruiser friends without blog access ======
Hope you all are having a grand Friday. We can’t complain too much. Sailing-wise, things have been pretty much brilliant. Though we are babying the mast and rigging a tad (I have a shroud fitting on the leeward side that needs replacing), and therefore sailing conservatively, we are still making pretty good time and again, you could almost forget that we have a ‘crippled’ boat without a working motor… it’s just a great passage, and not difficult so far.

Yesterday I rigged up two homemade lures, one on a large single hook, one on a treble. Imagine an expertly tied fly for fly-fishing, only one helluva lot simpler and uglier. For streamers and color, I used bits of plastic cut into thin long strips – I got this idea from Espumer, as Niklas had good luck with a rig like this sailing from Galapagos to Marquesas. I had the first lure in the water on the hand line, no more than 10 minutes, and was still working on second lure when we had a fish on! A great dourado (mahi mahi). We fought each other for a while, but he won – he spit the hook and swam away happy. That was in the morning. Yesterday evening, it happened again, this time on the reel and on lure number two. The reel screamed and the fight began. I wasn’t going to lose this one! We fought for quite a while but on a deep run he got away too… I soon found out why. He was well hooked in the side of his mouth and only escaped by sacrificing a good part of his lower jaw, which came back to me with the lure. Felt sorry for that guy, worse than I felt for myself having lost it. Two minutes later, we caught a small skipjack tuna as a consolation prize and ate him this afternoon with a teriaki and sesame concoction that was delicious!

Buddy Boat
Our friends on Espumeru continue to sail close by, nearly always within line of sight. At the moment, they are about 2 nm to our port beam, and you can just see the white triangle of their sails on the horizon. Not only is it great security and moral support to have them close, they are also a great deal of fun! Niklas and I chat regularly on the VHF and last night they surprised us with a real moonlight serenade by radio…. singing a great rendition of that ‘Sail’ song, by Rod Stewart I believe. What a fun bunch of people. Later, Niklas told me riddles and laughed when I didn’t get the one about the elephant and the refrigerator!

Banana Pancakes
This morning I did pancakes as I had promised Lara (she did a killer omelet/frittata yesterday) and decided to make them Banana Pancakes! YUMMY! Imagine: real Canadian Maple syrup (thanks Sebs!!!), real French butter, fresh mountain filtered water from Polynesia and of course Polynesia-grown bananas… Jack Johnson never had it so good in Hawaii and I think it’s the tastiest pancakes I’ve ever had! It’s a good thing too – we have like 75 little bananas on a huge bunch, and they are starting to ripen now… send your monkeys please!

Finished a Jack Higgins novel I got from South African friend Bryan in Ecuador. Good read, entertaining and satifsyfing. Now reading “The Last Voyage of Captain Cook” – the collected writing of adventurer John Ledyard. I thought that apropros, all things considered. I’m on a section describing Tahiti at the moment…

Have a great Friday guys. More tomorrow.

Noonsite – Thursday – 26 August – ticking off the miles to Papeete

12.00 Marquesas time (21.20 UTC)
Position / Posicao: 11.29.86 S (sul), 144.24.60 W (oeste)
Course / Rumo (COG): 232 degrees magnetic (232 graus magneticos)
Speed / Velocidade (SOG, GPS): 6.5 knots (nos) – we’ve been at 6.0 to 7.0 for more than 12 hours straight Wind: ESE (110 degrees on the compass), 18-22 knots
Swell: 2.5 m – a little better than last night
Sunny Skies – temps in low 80’s (28 C)
Sailing under Genoa and Main Sail in third reef

388 NM to our first waypoint, off north end of Ahe Atoll (from there we’ll turn further SW to pass east of Rangiroa and then on into Papeete)

– – –
Hey gang – we’re making good time and continue to sail within line of sight range to our friends on Espumeru. At the moment they’re off the port bow at about 2 miles. It’s great to have a buddy boat on passage, so close and also tuned into your situation. We chat regularly on VHF radio with them, and then on the SSB also with Friendship at 0900 and 2100, daily. Other than that, it’s a normal passage day and we’re just sailing along, making miles and enjoying the warm weather. You’d never guess really that we have a dead diesel engine below decks and we are making our way to Papeete for repairs – you’d think we’d planned this passage just like this all along. I made a home-made lure this morning and had a Mahi Mahi on the line in less than 10 minutes. I fought him (on the hand line) for quite a while and though there was tremendous pressure on a sharp hook, he managed to spit it back at me when only about 10 meters from the stern of Walk On. He didn’t like the looks of me I suppose. Oh well. The lines are in the water and there will be other fish. If we do catch one, I will take a pic of the lure, you simply won’t believe it!

Lara and I are fine, and into our normal routines of watchkeeping, reading, sleeping, you know the gig…

Gotta go – save battery and check the weather!

More tomorrow

Moonlit passage Tahiti bound – and many thanks!

Hey Gang – we are underway to the Society Islands. Don’t know where that is? think Tahiti, Bora Bora, Raiatea…. That’s the Society Islands. Anyway, this is quick blog post and combination e-mail (cc’ing friends who don’t have access to the blog at the moment) to let you know that we are underway towards Papeete, Tahiti – motorless. The dolphins in the bay today were too good an omen and we need to move on, find a place to fix our engine (called and AUXILIARY on a sailboat) and get back to enjoying things the way cruisers should…

We’ve had tremendous help, both moral and practical, from a number of yachts and an even greater number of cruiser friends – so thanks to S/Y’s Friendship, Espumeru, Off Course, Erasmus and Larabeck – and their Captains and Crews of course, for the emails and messages and SSB contact. We have plenty of info to work with now and we thank you for taking the time to do research, to write, to suggest, and to show great support. We’ll keep you updated on where and when we plan to pull in – and how!

We’ve also had tremendous moral support by email and text messages, from the Usual Supects, family and friends – so thanks to Mom, Nels, JoJo, Doc, Japes, Debs, and others for that! We appreciate it and we need it.

So, now to the nitty gritty: We had some precious help from Cap’n and Crew from the yachts Espumeru and Off Course this afternoon – helping maneuver Walk On with no motor in major gusting winds so we could manually pull up the anchor and chain… a few tense moments but we did make it and we thank those who were there and able to provide invaluable help! At the moment, we are happy and lucky to have buddy-boat Espumeru just a tad to our port beam, making similar speed and headed for the same waypoint just north of Ahe. Niklas, Mira, and family and crew are awesome! Well then, a bit out of character – I have to write less compared to more – we are in battery saving mode now (no engine to boost the charging when necessary) so less is indeed more – the practical scoop:

22.50 Marquesas time Wed night (08:20 AM Tursday UTC)
Position / Posicao: 10.44.80 S (sul), 139.07.72 W (oeste)
Course / Rumo (COG): 230 degrees magnetic (230 graus magneticos) Speed / Velocidade (SOG, GPS): 7.5 knots (nos)
Wind: ESE (110 degrees on the compass), 22-25 knots
Swell: 2.5 m
Sailing under Genoa alone (I’ll explain why in coming posts)

I think we’ll be back to Noonsite posts tomorrow.

Be well gang, we are!

Abrupt Change of Plans – Tahiti Bound!

Hello. This just a quick message, not a particularly easy one to write, to let you know we’ve had a fairly drastic change of plans.

Here in Fatu Hiva, our Yanmar developed a very serious problem yesterday, that we tried to troubleshoot today and have decided is a major engine failure. Running along just fine after maneuvering the boat here in the Bay of Virgins, the engine was helping us charge the batteries a tad and was running at about 1.800 RPMs. Out of nowhere, a new, sinister, and rather loud noise developed. Somewhere between an agressive click and a knock – definitely not the kind of noises you want to hear coming from your engine. I turned it off right away of course and decided to let it cool before trouble-shooting it further.

Today we started it again, double-checking all the typical things we could (fuel, oil, impeller, air intake, loose parts or hoses, broken v-belt, etc). The noise continued and so we turned it off, again. We discussed it with Tim from Friendship by SSB radio, they are currently in Ua Po, and with Niklas from Espumeru, who is here in the anchorage with us and came aboard to take a look – and essentially we have some major breakage somewhere in the heart of the engine – something has gone wrong and we can’t correctly diagnose it here, much less fix it. But it’s along the lines of pistons, bearings, something mechanical which would seem to require some major maintenance and certainly a qualified mechanic.

Considering where we are, the closest place to have work like that done, or even attempted, is Papeete, Tahiti. That’s about a 760 mile trip, right through the Tuamotu atolls that we were so looking forward to visiting, and then to Papeete, where we’ll need assistance getting into the harbour with no engine. But I suppose this is part of the cruising life – just a part that you hope never happens to you, especially where no mechanics are available. We are heartbroken, crestfallen, and frustrated as hell, but we will try to make the best of it, and for the moment, focus on a safe motorless passage to Tahiti. There are two things in our favor – trying to look at the bright side – the first of course is that we are a sailboat! The second is that we are in the south Pacific and so trade winds are pretty much guaranteed… so no reason we can’t make Tahiti safely.

We are getting into pre-passage mode at the moment, and discussing a joint trip in the general direction of the Tuamotus, together with Espumeru. They have lost one of their two engines (they are a Catamaran) and will also be headed, almost directly, to Tahiti as well. Looks like we might have a buddy boat on the same passage.

When we are less bummed out about it all, I will write some about our last days here in Fatu Hiva, which have otherwise been very pleasant indeed.

More soon gang.

mjm & lara

Descansando em Fatu Hiva

Fala galera, tudo bem por ai?
Hj (quinta feira) o dia esta sendo 100% relax, um merecido relax eu diria. Falei para o Michael que ontem estavamos movidos por alguma energia ainda restante da travessia (fomos ate no happy hour do barco dos franceses mais simpaticos que ja conheci), mas foi so a primeira noite chegar que vimos o quanto estavamos destruidos. Hj acordamos, mas nao levantamos da cama, alias, levantamos sim, para pegar o laptop e ver um filminho. Depois que ele terminou fizemos uma pipoca com manteiga e partimos para o segundo filme, otimos! Ajeitamos um pouco a bagunca e acho que amanha daremos inicia as atividades de exploracao do lugar :-). Ja no falaram que andar aqui eh uma beleza, nao ha ruas retas, ou vc ta subindo ou descendo, o que faz uma caminhadinha de 2 km durar 4 horas. Entao, acho melhor a gente descansar mais antes de iniciar essa facanha!
Ontem fizemos uma incursao rapida em terra e foi lindo de ver, que lugar!!! Obvio que nao consegui entender nada que os polinesios falaram, mas com o tempo a gente chega la. Ja separei minhas bungingangas para trocar por frutas, estou curiosa para ver como sera a negociacao com a galera, so na linguagem corporal!
Ia esquecendo de comentar que ontem no fim da tarde saimos de botinho para pescar, cada um com a sua linha, e fico muito feliz em declarar que eu peguei um peixinho para nos enquanto o MM nao pegou nada! Mas soltamos o peixe, era um tipo de atum que nao gostamos tanto, ou nao sabemos fazer, pois na ultima vez que cozinhamos esse mesmo tipo de peixe nao ficou tao bom. Por hora eh so, estou ficando cansada de tanto escrever, ha ha ha! bj

Anchored in Polynesia – Voila!

Well, that’s it.

The long awaited ‘holy cow that’s a long passage’ passage is over.

The anticipation, a memory. The climax, already water under the bridge. Now what?

We are anchored in the Bay of Virgins, off the Village of Hanaveve, in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia… or, in other words: 10 degrees 27 minutes south latitude, 138 degrees 40 minutes west longitude.

Just astern of us is the only other boat already here, a Catamaran of unknown nationality (I can’t see their flag). There is clearly a small village ashore, right off the bow, but all I can see at the moment is a soccer field and a radio tower of some kind. The bay itself is similar in many ways to St Vincent – except more majestic, bigger, more dramatic in it’s grandeur – especially when you recall that you have just sailed more than three thousand nautical miles to get here. The lee of the island, which we had a chance to inspect a bit on our way into the anchorage, is wholly similar to Kauai – in fact, one section is a brother geological formation to the Napali Coast. If you have ever seen that, then you know the natural beauty I’m talking about. Everything else in sight is some shade of green (trees, shrubs, etc) or black (the lava!!!!). Green, lush, rugged, beautiful. A landlfall in paradise. Looks like the set of Lost, or Jurassic Park – just to put it into context for you. (It’s so much better than a movie set!!!!) Oh yeah, and their are goat on the rocks and steep slopes, eathing the grass on the north side of the anchorage.

We motored very slowly up and down the lee coast all night long, not wanting to make this landfall by night. The night seemed endless after so many days at sea and Lara and I took short two hours turns on watch just to try and make it bearable. I tried several times to sail, but in the lee of this tall island (over 850 meters of soaring volcanic spires and mountains), the wind was nill to almost nill. So we had to call on Yan, and Yan is showing me some troubling signs of an unusual smoke from the exhaust… will have to double-back on that one and get it sorted. All in good time.

I am starting to unwind (the adrenaline drains away and you feel the pure raw will to sleep for days) and clean up the boat – though I have just seen we’ve got one helluva cleanup job to do on the bottomside. I have never seen this particular growth before, but Walk On has acquired a Santa Claus beard of marine life that I almost can’t believe. And to starboard, on which side we were heeled most of the time, the growth is even up over the bootstripe (white stripe down by the waterline) and encroaching quite nicely on the lovely dark blue hull paint. Wow. You have to see it to believe it. Speaking of unwinding, once we were sure the anchor was set, Lara hit the hay in a matter of seconds. Poor thing. This last watch had been hers and I know she too just wants some pure, quality, undisturbed and un-heeling resting time to sleep. She deserves it! What a champ she’s been on this our longest passage.

So, a few numbers…
If you count ‘arrival’ as coming close (within a mile) of the north tip of the island last night – we did the trip in 21 days and 10 hours.
If you count arrival as anchors down after motoring off shore all night to wait for daybreak – we did the tirp in 21 days and 21.5 hours.

I’ve no hard numbers on the exact mileage, but I do know that it was a bit further than the published rhumb-line or even great circle routes – which will generally give you something like 2,950 nautical miles from the Galapagos – Santa Cruz. As we left from San Cristobal (further east), and did quite a bit of tacking off the wind the last days of the trip, I would venture that we did easily 3.100 nautical miles.

Best case: 3 weeks and 10 hours – 514 hours – 3,100 miles – avg speed of 6.03 knots
Worst case: 3 weeks and 21.5 hours – 525.5 hours – 3,100 miles – avg speed of 5.90 knots.

Neither one of these is very appealing to me – for reasons that I won’t go into at the moment – but it is what it is, and we are here. Bummer we lost the use of our Spinnaker pole – I think we would have made it here in 19.5 days more or less (avg. of 6.62 knots or something like that). Still, Lara got to surf a wave at 10.6 knots she said.

And for numbers and lists, I’ll wait until my next email to post some other kind of disturbing news (about what broke or broke down, and what is on the fix-it soon list!).

For the moment, our very best from Fatu Hiva.
From French Polynesia.
From Paradise.

This unlikely couple (simple guy from the desert in AZ, lovely lady from the farmlands of Brazil’s interior) has just done one very long ocean passage – successfully and happily – crossing the better part of the largest ocean on our known planet. Without major incident, in relative peace and comfort, and just tickled to have actually done this in our own boat, on our own time – and yet still in our lifetime! Carpe diem.

Sail far gang, and live slow too.
MM & Lara